Ñandutí is one of Paraguay's traditional art that uses complex lacework and embroidery. The word “nanduti” literally means spider-web in the Guarani. Though each one looks different from the next, a common feature is that it uses circular threads starting from the center and outwards, and women incorporate geometric shapes and common Paraguayan flowers such as jasmines into the lace. This structure looks like a spider web, hence the name, but it also resembles rays of the Sun. It is often used to create decorative items such as tablecloths, doilies, shawls, and even garments.
These types of lacework are also popular in South America, Spain, Mexico, and Canary Islands each known with different names and characteristics but ñandutí is one of the finest. It was first introduced by Spandiards and originated in the city of Itaugua, Paraguay. The lace from Canary island resembled ñandutíI the most, yet there’s no proof of Canarians teaching or spreading it to indigenous people. Ñandutí became well known in the 16th century and around the early 20th century, American women’s magazines started to use this style as well.
The origins of this art form is still a mystery yet to be backed by evidence, but there is a legend concerning ñandutí. The story follows a Paraguayan girl who searched the woods on her wedding day to find her missing husband. She searched til she finally found his body at night and laid awake with him. When the sun rose, his body was covered in spider webs, in which she vowed to copy the work of the spiders. She ran home only to return with a needle and thread and created a piece of ñandutí lace.
The process of making one ñandutí is quite long. Before even starting the stitches, a sketch must be designed and traced over a piece of fabric with a pencil. Then a thread is wrapped around a rectangular frame to provide a grid or a foundation for the lace, which will later determine its structure. Now, weave the thread with a needle carefully following the pattern. This step requires attention to detail as it can be easy to mess up the intricate lines.